I hated wetsuits then as i do now but I'm learnin. This is me on the 9' San Juan McTavish and if it got bigger than this the 6' would come out .
In 77 there were not many longboarders so you can imagine how many waves i had to myself , and after 2 hr session on a day like this you were knackered as Broken always demanded many turns and much speed.
At the time I was working for my ole friend Roy Meisel at BARE NATURE Surfboards, which gave me many opportunities to surf here and also a lot of time to experiment, I liked concaves but there were other boards out there that were fun to surf but when Broken pumped only the concaves gave you that edge to come out of the barrels.
My recent trip up north I caught up again with Paul Joske of VALLA surfboards, you should check him out he's another old concave addict and a wonderful craftsman and in 77 was ahead of his time.
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