LOGGING at the Pass 1970s
In the early 70s up til 81,82 I was living around Byron bay,and short boards ruled , a lot of surfers of my vintage , just didn't tick with them, and most stopped surfing and pursued the Aussie art of drinking Grog so at this time there were hardly anyone riding longboards so, on many a good, up to shoulder high day the maximum crowd of longboarders would be 4 or 5 . There were only 2 modern logs one a Warren Cornish and the other a Bare Nature shaped by Nigel Perrow the rest were 60s logs and all the guys surfing them grew up on logs so the array of different styles and moves was a sight . Roy Meisel an american who founded Bare Nature was a Vietnam veteran and never surfed or saw a shortboard and only surfed logs with a very distinctive Californian style and then came Rusty Miller who brought out the softboard and Morey Pope Boogieboard and we all thought another American gimmick Ha!...... The learning curve here was as the waves got hollower or faster the old logs didn't compare, with the exception of a few. The newer shapes turned better, were faster and very reactive, but didn't nose ride as good and this is where the revolution of logs and what you want to do on them came of age, but it didn't matter back then just as long as you had length to catch those little beauties at the Pass with 5 other guys out IMAGINE it now those were the days......
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